Port Angeles - Monday, Oct. 4 2010

It’s said you should keep the best things for last and although not quite the best, today’s activity was right up there.

It seems we’re having a bad weather day and a good weather day alternately. Today started off really well – we could see the mountains to the south and across the strait to Vancouver Island to the north.

Mountains in Olympic NP

After a small sleep-in we set off for the northern section of Olympic NP and a 27 km uphill drive, involving three tunnels, to Hurricane Ridge. For our early start we were rewarded with a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains although some of the peaks were obscured by low cloud. As with all the other parks we have visited, Olympic is also in the throes of autumn shut-down. The visitor centre and gift shop were closed for the season and the snow poles were coming out.

A major walk to Hurricane Hill starts just past the visitor’s centre and we set off with lots of energy and enthusiasm to walk the 2.5 km (all uphill) to the top. The view along the trail was superb in all directions – snow capped mountains dropped steeply to the valley bottom far below while the colours displayed were very impressive. The dark colours of the pine trees contrasted brilliantly with the autumn shades.

As we approached the top the cloud started to descend lower and we decided to abort the last few hundred metres of the climb. After all, how much fun is there in looking at the inside of a cloud?

Looking back towards the trailhead. Cars are in the centre.

It was a good decision because by the time we had reached the car the cloud had completely closed in and it had become very, very cold.

The long drive back down the mountain allowed tiredness to well and truly set in. Despite this it was a really beautiful hike and well worth doing.

The afternoon was spent giving the car a drive-through car wash while Helen attended to our personal laundry.

Packing our accumulated possessions into the limited baggage space was a challenge – hopefully it will all fit into Tony’s car.

Aberdeen to Port Angeles - Sunday, Oct. 3 2010

Helen crossing the bridge on falls trail.

Had a very wet start to the day. We planned to visit the Hoh valley rainforest on our way around the Olympic peninsular to Port Angeles. On reaching the turn-off we debated whether to continue on or drive the 30 km up the valley. We decided to take our chances and it turned out to be a good decision. By the time we had reached the Visitor Centre the rain had eased to a light drizzle so we donned our wet-weather gear and set off on the Spruce Nature Trail. After all, you can’t have a rainforest without rain.

It was a really interesting walk. The blankets of moss hanging from the trees were amazing. It was a much more “pure” form of temperate rainforest than what we had seen yesterday. I imagine there would be places in Tasmania with a similar type of forest.

Waterfall

Just before reaching Port Angeles we drove along the shore of Crescent Lake for many kilometres. Even though it was quite a grey day the beauty of this glacial lake was obvious with the steep tree covered mountains surrounding the lake. We hiked to a waterfall part-way up the side of one of the mountains and were rewarded with a very scenic view.

Helen shouted me a birthday dinner tonight and we went to a restaurant at the harbour-front called “Downriggers”. Talk about a value plus deal. It turns out they have a Sunday special which consisted of clam chowder, roast turkey with cranberry sauce and vegies, a glass of wine and ice-cream for dessert – all for $13.95!

Aberdeen - Saturday, Oct. 2 2010

We decided to stay at Aberdeen for two nights so that we could spend some time in the southern part of Olympic NP before moving around to Port Angeles and the northern section on Sunday.

Autumn colours

As we left Aberdeen and moved away from the coast the weather began to improve and although it was still overcast it was pleasant enough for us to continue with our plans.

Today was a hiking day as we walked along a number of trails around Lake Quinault. Olympic NP is largely temperate rainforest, especially the western section, and receives in excess of 100 inches (ie 250 cm) of rain a year with almost half of that falling in the winter months of December/January.

We were fortunate to see a number of trees which are rated among the highest/biggest in the world for their particular species. Altogether a very enjoyable day.

Moss hanging from the trees

During our travels we’ve had conversations with a lot of Americans. The conversations usually start off with, “Where are you from?” “Wollongong, just south of Sydney.” Very few people have heard of Wollongong, hence the need for the extra information. The discussion then moves to our trip and they are invariably blown-away when we tell them how long we’ve been here and where we’ve been. Usually the next question relates to the value of our currency. In general, they know very little about Australia so I usually feel quite pleased that I can comment on their economic situation and politics. One guy wasn’t very impressed when I told him that part of the reason our dollar is so high at the moment is because of the weakness of the US dollar. I guess home truths are not always welcome.

Newport to Aberdeen - Friday, Oct. 1 2010

When Captain Cook visited this part of the world he named Newport Cape Foulweather. While it probably wasn’t that bad, the day started off wet and foggy. Along the seashore the weather was worse while as soon as the road moved inland it improved a little.

Today was another big driving day, almost five hours, and again largely due to the winding road, traffic and lots of small towns. Averaging 65 kph is not my idea of driving fun!

Fortunately we were able to do most of what we had planned with no real interference from the weather.

As we approached Tillamook the country changed and became very lush grazing with lots of dairy farms. Tillamook itself is famous for its cheese factory so this was our first stop. It was interesting to see the cheese being packaged but even more interesting to try out the range of items sold in the shop. It’s a shame we couldn’t bring some samples home – I don’t think Customs would approve. We tried out some of the 38 flavours of ice cream they produce – wild huckleberry for me and Helen had the pistachio and pecan. Ice cream servings in USA are large and the price is really cheap - $2 for two huge scoops in a dish!

Fort Clatsop

Our second stop was at Fort Clatsop near Astoria. A replica fort has been constructed here for the Lewis and Clark expedition.  In early 1800s Lewis and Clark led a group of men to explore from the Missouri River across to the Pacific Coast and in doing so opened up the way west. Sounds a bit similar to the McDouall Stuart south to north crossing of Australia – although I think Stuart had the tougher environment to deal with. Nevertheless, Lewis and Clark are exploration heroes in the narrative of US history. The fort had a palisade (wall) but was still very small for the number of men who lived there.

Bridge across the Columbia River, Astoria, Oregon

                                                                     Astoria also has a landmark called the Astoria Column, which can be seen for quite a distance. It celebrates the Lewis-Clark journey and stands high on a hill overlooking the town. Helen and I decided to climb the 168 steps to the top. Unfortunately the view was spoilt by the dull weather conditions. We were however able to get an uninterrupted view of the Astoria bridge over the Columbia River.

The bridge is amazing. It’s 6.5 km long and stretches from Astoria in Oregon across the Columbia river to Washington. Just to think of a river so wide is staggering and it must have been a real engineering accomplishment back in the 1960’s when it was built.

Both Helen and I are quite tired – I think all the driving is catching up with us. I know it certainly is with me. This adds a bit to the journey time as I need to stop more often. It was quite a relief to finally arrive in Aberdeen although it was quite late in the day. Tonight we continued our seafood odyssey as we dined at a restaurant called Mallards, which was recommended by reception at our accommodation. As the name suggests, the restaurant is decorated with ducks, ducks and more ducks. Helen had trout while I chose the salmon. The food was absolutely delicious and by far and away the best meal we’ve eaten on the trip.

Aberdeen itself doesn’t have a lot to recommend it – not the sort of place I would choose to live in although about 15000 people have. That number must include the surrounding district because the town doesn’t seem that large. Like all the towns along the Oregon-Washington coast most activity seems to centre around the port and harbour. The timber industry is also a major employer because of the forests which dominate.

Crescent City to Newport - Thursday, Sep. 30 2010

A rather ordinary day. After all the exhilaration and pleasure over the last six days today brought us back to earth.

It was a long drive from Crescent City to Newport made longer by the fact that there wasn’t a lot to see. The trip was quite slow as we passed through numerous small towns and villages with a reduced speed limit and the road was quite winding.

Islands in the fog

Fog along the seashore hampered viewing early on but we were able to see lots of rock-stacks/islets/islands poking through.

We did develop an interest in architecture during the day as we crossed over lots of bridges with some amazing designs especially incorporating columns and arches. Helen came across some information which revealed they were all designed by the same person, obviously explaining the similar characteristics.

I mentioned the sea lions we saw at Crescent City and today we visited Sea Lion Cave. It is a commercial operation which allows you to descend by lift into a viewing area adjacent to a cave occupied by sea lions. You know sea lions are present by the raucous noise they make.

Bridge in Newport, Oregon

On arriving in Newport late this afternoon we asked for recommendations for seafood restaurants. One was down by the harbour-front and as soon as we got out of the car we knew there was a sea lion colony nearby. I would hate to be staying in accommodation nearby as they apparently keep up the racket all night.

We’ve decided to dine out on seafood as we make our way up the coast. A delightful restaurant alongside the harbour, called the Chart Room, was recommended to us in Crescent City and we ate there both nights. Tonight we ate at Local Ocean and the food and ambience was superb. There can’t be a better way to eat seafood than right alongside where the trawlers tie up. Prices have been pretty reasonable and we can generally get a meal for $30. The tip is extra of course!

While I strongly dislike the practice of tipping we nevertheless do the right thing. Only once did I refuse to tip and that was because the food and service didn’t measure up.

Crescent City - Wednesday, Sep. 29 2010

As we set off this morning the fog was noticeably lighter than last night, especially around Crescent City so we decided to get some early photos of the harbour and light-house. While making our way down the coast the fog became thicker, especially along the seashore and over the ocean. We decided to abort some of the drives and viewpoints which were fog-bound.

Just on the outskirts of town we passed through another old-growth redwood area. It was so dark for about 14km as we drove through the tunnel of trees that headlights were necessary. This was a roadside instruction, but quite a sensible one.

Driving thru a Redwood tree

As we made our way south we stopped at “Tour Thru Tree” where we were actually able to drive through a redwood tree. Apart from the interest value, this and a number of trees we saw damaged by fire, demonstrated just how resilient the redwoods are. Unlike most trees, the redwoods don’t have any resin to ignite during a fire. The bark contains water which acts as a retardant and helps protect the tree. We saw a number of trees which had been burnt up the centre yet continued to survive.

Continuing southwards, we drove through some redwood areas which had been logged and restored. While the old-growth areas were very dark underneath and had little understorey foliage, the areas which had been logged had a more open canopy and contained ferns and a variety of low shrubs.

Tall trees

Lady Bird Johnson Grove, about 40km south of Crescent City, was our turn around point. As President Johnson’s wife she was involved with having the redwoods protected and the area declared a National Park. A really nice walk through the grove provided lots of background information about the redwood trees.

On the way back we stopped at a commercial venture called Trees of Mystery which attempted to capitalise on some of the unusual shapes (eg Ripley’s Believe it or Not). The main interest was a gondola ride through the redwoods to the mountain top which we quite enjoyed.

Crater Lake NP to Crescent City - Tuesday, Sep. 28 2010

Today dawned like another day in heaven so it was a real shame to be leaving Crater Lake. However an amazing sensation awaited our arrival in Crescent City. As we got out of the car an overwhelming odour came to our attention. What was it? The smell of the sea and salt air. A sea mist had formed along the ocean shore. It was rather reminiscent of when we had visited Pacific Rim NP on the west coast of Vancouver Island in 2007.

Helen and a couple of Redwood friends

On the way to Crescent City we travelled down the Redwood Highway, so named for obvious reasons. Just when you think you’ve seen all the great sites another pops up to capture your attention – namely the stately redwood trees. The drive itself was a challenge of concentration as the road wound through steep-sided valleys covered with pine trees of various types on an ever downward spiral towards sea level. The scenery was just breath-taking. We made a number of photo stops but a still photo hardly does justice. I think a 360 degree roof mounted camera (a la Google) might have done the job.

The major attraction for the day was a visit to Stout Grove, a large cluster of old growth redwood trees. Normally these can be reached by a short walk across a bridge over the nearby Smith River. However National Parks remove the bridge after the Labor Day weekend (early September) to prevent it being damaged by flooding from the torrential rain which can occur. We had to drive down a narrow road and walk about a kilometre to gain access to the grove and the trail which winds through it.

The redwood tunnel - lights on please!

Words fail to adequately describe these trees and their size. No single photo can encompass a complete tree so we had to be satisfied with “bits and pieces”. I took a movie of a tree in the hope that it might convey an impression of their immense size and some comparative size photos with Helen as the “reference point”. The tallest tree in the grove is the height of a 35 storey building! Just massive.

Towards evening the sea fog rolled in and by the time we had finished dinner it was difficult to see more than 20m ahead. We saw both seals and sea lions in the harbour although getting a good photo in the conditions was near impossible.

Crater Lake NP - Monday, Sep. 27 2010

What a glorious day! Brilliant sunshine, no clouds, very little wind and a temperature in the low 20s. I can’t imagine too many better places to spend a day like today than in Crater Lake NP. Because of the conditions the views of the lake, no matter from what position or angle, were simply outstanding. The colour of the water was just the prettiest blue imaginable and because there was no wind the reflections were picture perfect.

We began the day with a short hike (spotted three deer so Helen was very pleased) and a film on the history of the park.

This was followed up with a two hour tour of the lake rim in a gas-powered trolley bus and led by one of the park rangers. He was absolutely brilliant – extremely knowledgeable and entertaining in his presentation. My betting is that he was a teacher in a “previous life”. We were surprised to learn that he is only employed for the 3 or 4 months of summer and has to find his own employment for the remainder of the year. The fact that he has been coming here for 18 years reinforced his love for the park and helped explain the professionalism of his presentation. The trolley bus tours only started operating in July and the NP people are hoping to make them a highlight of a visit to Crater Lake. It was well worth every cent of the $22 per head.

Phantom Ship rock

After the tour we had a quick lunch and set out on our own rim excursion and were able to get photos of some of the places the tour missed. Two of the interesting sights were a rock formation in the lake called the Phantom Ship, which looked just like a sailing ship, and the Old Man of the Lake – a floating log about a metre above the lake surface which moves around the lake with the fluctuating currents.

All in all it was thoroughly enjoyable day.

The Pinnacles

I think I’m falling in love with pine forests. From those in Yellowstone, to those around Bend and here at Crater Lake (and those we saw in BC in 2007), they are just very different environments to the eucalypt forests we have at home. The dark green colours, shade, coolness, softness underfoot, smell – there’s just something appealing about them.

It is with a little sadness that I realised today our driving tour is almost over (one week to go). We’ve seen so many interesting and amazing things and so much incredible scenery that the memories will last forever. On the other side however is the pleasure and anticipation of seeing Tony and Cyndy in a week’s time.

Bend to Crater Lake NP - Sunday, Sep. 26 2010

Deschutes River rapids

Crater Lake with Wizard Island on right

While yesterday was very warm it was a different story as we departed from Bend this morning. We were going to visit some more volcanic places of interest but while waiting for one to open we noticed a sign which indicated four miles to a Benham Falls so we decided to investigate and were glad we did. The Deschutes River, which flows through Bend, began in one of the small lakes we saw yesterday. We followed its course for a short distance while it was a narrow twisting but very attractive stream and it was this same river where we found the waterfall today. It was a very different river however as it raged over rapids and through a narrow rocky ravine.

The area around Bend is hugely popular for a variety of activities – miles and miles of trails and tracks wind through the parks and forests and there are picnic spots everywhere...
Yesterday we came across a group of people doing a 50km run through the forest; another group doing a long distance shuttle relay; a group of people mountain biking along forest trails. Today while we were walking along the river a number of people were going for a run. I’d love to have the recreational opportunities around here, back in Wollongong.

After the exercise involved in walking along the river and enjoying the scenery we decided that lava fields would be rather boring so continued on our way towards Crater Lake, today’s destination.

The first view of Crater Lake is rather like the first view of places like the Grand Canyon and Uluru. You know it’s going to be big but you’re still in awe when you actually see it.

As the name suggests the lake is located in the caldera of a Mt Mazama which collapsed 7700 years ago following a large eruption. The resulting crater was filled with water from rainfall and snowfall. The average snowfall is 13.5m per year – the snow-poles along the road are the tallest I’ve ever seen. The lake is almost 600m deep and is the most brilliant blue colour. It is about 8km in diameter and surrounded by steep rock walls which rise up to 600m above the lake’s surface. Very, very impressive.

Our accommodation is in Crater Lake Lodge and our room on the third floor is high up in the roof line. As a result we have a couple of head-banger spots where the sloping roof meets the ceiling. Think I might visit the toilet on hands and knees during the night just to be safe.

Bend - Saturday, Sep. 25 2010

Our accommodation in Bend is really well located. We’re about 4 km from the centre of town which hardly matters as whole blocks nearby are chockfull of shops providing just about anything we might need. There are lots of take-away, restaurant and coffee shop options, a huge Safeway supermarket, Barnes & Noble bookshop, Costco, a place called Big Lots and so on and so on. Last night we checked out a shop called Goodys – their specialty is chocolates and ice-cream. The signature item is self serve frozen yoghurt (7 or 8 different flavours). You serve yourself and add whatever toppings you want (about 30 to choose from) and then take your concoction to the register. The cost is worked out at 40c per ounce (an ounce is about 30 grams). It seemed like quite a novelty idea and was very popular.

Lake Todd

This morning we set off to follow Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway – the operative words being Lakes and Scenic. The drive took us past Mt Bachelor – the main skiing area about 30 km out of Bend. Some of the lakes were stunningly beautiful – our favourite was Lake Todd and we would have enjoyed staying there all day if there hadn’t been other things to see and do.

On our way back to Bend we stopped at the High Desert Museum and spent about three hours there because it was so interesting. We were particularly impressed with the displays on the history and culture of the native Americans and on the settlement and development of the area by white people. Some raptors and other animals native to the area were housed in outside areas. On otter was one of the highlights for us as we had never seen one of these playful creatures before.

Caldwell to Bend - Friday, Sep. 24 2010

Our motel in Caldwell was excellent – double queen room + wifi + complimentary breakfast + a heated pool (Helen had a swim) for $80 (incl. Tax). This was our cheapest stay and one of our best. In actual fact we haven’t stopped in a dud place yet – the tour organiser must have done a good job organising the accommodation! While we budgeted $150 a night for accommodation, it’ll probably come in well under that, even allowing for the fact that we have paid $200 a night in a few places (eg Monument Valley and the National Parks).

The key to getting the best deal is to book online, select the AAA rate, request a double queen room and ask for a ground floor unit. Nobody has quibbled about the AAA rate and we’ve never been asked for a card. NRMA membership card has the AAA reciprocal logo on it and that’s what I was banking on using if asked. Why double queen? The rate is usually the same as for a single queen and you end up with a more spacious room.

Today we had a looooong boring drive from Caldwell to Bend – lots of sagebrush and arid countryside with only a Maccas stop about halfway to break it up. Helen drove for about an hour which gave me a good break. As we are now on Pacific Time we gained an hour so now are only seven hours different to Wollongong and back in the same time-zone as Tony.

Snow-capped mountains near Bend

Bend is a large town with over 80 000 people and quite attractive. We wandered through a riverside park which was very cool and pleasant. We also got a free carwash courtesy of the local Hertz agent as we had accumulated lots and lots of insects driving through the farming areas between Idaho Falls and Bend.

A number of snow-capped mountains could be clearly seen as we approached Bend. In fact the snow coverage is more extensive that we saw in the Tetons.

Idaho Falls to Caldwell - Thursday, Sep. 23 2010

Our motel in Idaho Falls provided an excellent complimentary breakfast so we weren’t in too big a hurry to leave.

Lava scenery

Our main scheduled stop was at Craters of the Moon National Monument. To get there we drove across about 80 km of arid, treeless plain with nothing much to see but shrubs of sage-brush and tussocks of dry grass. As the name suggests, it had to do with the volcanic activity in the area and the lava flows which resulted. Helen and I were intrigued by the variety of formations. It would be hard to imagine a more rugged and difficult environment. In summer it is blazing hot and in winter freezing cold. Today there was a lazy, chilly wind to contend with.

On our way to today’s destination, Caldwell, we very nearly came to grief. Dora’s instructions while travelling through Shoshone were to make a left turn, followed by a right turn. Just as I started to turn right a vehicle towing a trailer raced through the inside lane. His trailer wheel made contact with the front wheel of the car. I am absolutely amazed that there was no contact anywhere else and the only damage is a mark on the rim. I can only assume some higher being must have been looking after us! That left us a little shaken but OK.

Irrigated paddock

Between Idaho Falls and Caldwell the Snake River valley makes a large loop which we rejoined after our Shoshone experience. The area displays amazingly rich farming resources. The amount of irrigation was mind-boggling. Huge irrigation sprays move in a circular pattern to water crops such as corn, lucerne and potatoes. One minute you’re driving through dry, arid looking sage-brush and the next you’re surrounded by lush irrigated pastures. As the Snake River is fed by snow-melt from Grand Teton and Yellowstone there’s obviously no shortage of water.

The Americans really have to be complimented on their road network. The interstate highways in particular are a driver’s dream. Two lanes of divided highway that just goes on and on with a maximum speed of 75 mph (120 kph). Through Boise, a city of over 200 000 people it became four lanes in each direction. Even the lesser highways are well constructed, have a speed limit of 65 mph (105 kph) and feel very safe to drive on.

Canyon Village to Idaho Falls - Wednesday, Sep. 22 2010

It was a little disappointing having to leave Yellowstone this morning – such an amazing place, mainly because of the wildlife and scenery. On the way out to West Yellowstone we saw a large herd of elk and some bison. At one place in the park, road-works were being carried out and we had a wait of 15 – 30 minutes. Just as we pulled up a large bull elk happened to be standing on the side of the road.

The town of West Yellowstone is just outside the park in Montana. It’s a tourism hub for the park with lots of accommodation – we were staggered by the number of three storey complexes in the town. It also has very wide streets and the shops along the main street exhibit a typically western theme. The IMAX theatre is a prominent building approaching the town from Yellowstone. Another major attraction is the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Centre. We spent about two hours there and it was a great opportunity to find out more about these animals. The reintroduction of the wolf to Yellowstone has been quite contentious, especially amongst the farming community surrounding the park. Nevertheless their survival now seems assured.

After leaving West Yellowstone we made a stop at Big Springs, the source of one of the tributaries (Henry’s Fork) of the Snake River. Water from some of Yellowstone’s snow melt seeps underground and emerges at Big Springs in a very attractive stream which is home to lots of rainbow trout. We were able to see and feed these from the bridge over the stream.

Further south we followed a scenic drive which took us past two waterfalls on Henry’s Fork and a number of other view-points.

Our motel in Idaho Falls was on the bank of the Snake River and adjacent to a beautiful landscaped park. A weir which extends down the centre of the river for at least a kilometre is used to generate 50% of the city’s electricity and seems an excellent piece of innovation.

Helen took the opportunity to put through a load of washing while I put the car through a car wash, after I found it that is! Dora did a good job of finding it for me but on the way home she wanted to send me the wrong way up a one-way street. I suspect from that adventure that the Hertz Never-lost system needs to update its maps.

Canyon Village, Yellowstone NP - Tuesday, Sep. 21 2010

Frosty stream

Yesterday was the coldest day we’ve experienced since leaving home with a maximum of about 14 degrees and with a cold biting wind. Today we awoke to a very heavy frost – the first I can remember for many years.

Due to the road closure caused by the fire we had a short driving day today and only travelled to Mammoth Hot Springs on the northern boundary of the park and just inside the Montana - Wyoming border.

Terraces at Mammoth

The main hydrothermal feature there is the terraces which have been formed by deposition of minerals out of the water. This has built up over the years into a series of terraces or steps. It’s quite amazing what mother nature can conjure up.

As well as the terraces Mammoth is renowned for the herd of elk which roam the village. EVERYWHERE there are signs advising people not to approach the elk and three NP volunteers were given the task of keeping the people away from the animals as they alternatively dozed and fed on the lush green lawns. They were quite oblivious to the fuss they were generating.

Fort Yellowstone was established at Mammoth in the early days of the park’s history when the cavalry was given the task of protecting the park and its wildlife from members of the public. Most of the buildings from the fort have been preserved and it’s a credit that they are in such excellent condition. Again, as with Fort Verde, this was a fort without a wall.

Considering the end of the season is near it was mind-boggling to see just how many people were there while the traffic on the road was quite hectic too.

It appears that once the schools go back and the weather starts to get cooler the National Parks start shutting down. By the end of September there will be very little still operating in the park. Evidence of preparation for winter is everywhere. A number of the campgrounds are closed; some roads are closed; some services here at Canyon Village (Deli and Cafeteria) have already shut; the stock in the store is declining and not being replaced and some clothing items are on sale. Yesterday we saw a toilet block boarded up to prevent snow entering and the NP staff have been out putting the snow poles along the road.

We’ve thoroughly enjoyed our week in Grand Teton and Yellowstone. The scenery and wildlife is the main attraction for us and there has been plenty of that to marvel at.

Canyon Village, Yellowstone NP - Monday, Sep. 20 2010

After yesterday’s “driving day” we opted to spend today around Canyon Village. Canyon Village and Canyon Lodge take the first part of their name from the adjacent Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone – not as majestic as the Grand Canyon in Arizona but very impressive and spectacular nevertheless.

The Yellowstone River flows out of Yellowstone Lake and flows north. As it nears here it tumbles over two majestic waterfalls – the Upper and Lower Falls. The amount of water flowing over is enormous and one can only imagine what it must be like in early spring when it is swollen by snow-melt.

328 steps down & 328 back up!

There are two drives along the canyon – South Rim and North Rim. Both have a number of lookouts and trails leading to outstanding views of the canyon and the falls. One trail we took led us to a stupendous viewpoint of the lower falls. Perhaps a “trail” is a bit of a misnomer as it actually involved 328 steps down (and of course 328 back up). There was a warning sign for those with heart or breathing issues but we took the ascent cautiously and experienced no problems. It was a great view and well worth the effort.

After lunch we took on the trail to the brink of the lower falls for a different perspective. This involved a 180m descent (in 1.2 km) and with lots of switchbacks. Again the heart and breathing warnings applied but we came through just fine. It was a truly amazing experience at the top of the falls with about 140 000 litres of water flowing over every second.

When we went out on the wildlife excursion on Saturday we saw a fire (started by lightning) in the park. Fires are considered a natural event and are allowed to burn pretty much unimpeded, unless they threaten property or look like getting out of hand. As a result the road north from here is closed about 18 km away. We were hoping to do the northern loop tomorrow and come back this way so may have to reassess our plans if the road remains closed.

Grizzly bear cub

After Helen’s disappointment with the wildlife tour on Saturday, we set off this evening to rectify the situation, with great success. First we came across a black bear on the side of the road and a little further on a grizzly bear with two cubs. As a result Helen was in “bear heaven”. On the return trip the icing on the cake consisted of two elk and a number of mule deer. Mission accomplished!

Canyon Village, Yellowstone NP - Sunday, Sep. 19 2010

Today was a thermal experience. Apart from wildlife, Yellowstone is also renowned for its geothermal features of which “Old Faithful” is probably the best known.

The roads in the park basically form a figure eight and Canyon Lodge, where we are staying, is at the centre of the two loops. Most of the geysers, fumaroles, hot springs and mud ponds are in the bottom loop and this was the area we traversed today. I read somewhere that there are more hydrothermal features in Yellowstone than the rest of the world combined.

I suppose if you were right into volcanoes and associated hydrothermal highlights it would be excellent but Helen and I found after 7or 8 stops it was just variations on a theme. Don’t get me wrong, it was interesting and we saw some fabulous and unusual sights.

We did get to see “Old Faithful” geyser erupt but weren’t tremendously impressed. There were hundreds of people in a huge semi-circular location around it and the “show” lasted for a few minutes. I suppose the most amazing thing about it is its regularity. The rangers are able to predict when the next eruption will occur, within plus or minus ten minutes.

The Yellowstone countryside is very different to the mountainous backdrop of Grand Teton NP.

Grand Teton consists of a majestic mountain range to the west, a river flat largely occupied by the Snake River and numerous lakes.

Yellowstone on the other hand is dominated by Lake Yellowstone. The surrounding country is a variety of hills, valleys, small mountains, the Yellowstone River and a number of smaller streams. Pine trees cover about 80% of the park interspersed with grassy meadows and clearings.

The dominant tree is the lodgepole pine. In stressful times it adapts by shedding its lower branches so that it resembles a pole with a Christmas tree on top. Other pine species consist of the Sub-Arctic Fir (a sharp, pointy shape) and spruce which have a more rounded top. Sage brush occupies the more open areas.

The rivers and streams are extremely attractive – clear water flowing over rapids and through grassy meadows.

On our journey today we were rewarded by sighting a wolf, off the road about 200m. Again the traffic jam of cars as drivers pulled over and parked willy-nilly, was the tip-off.

Jackson to Canyon Village, Yellowstone NP - Saturday, Sep. 18 2010

The trip up from Jackson to Yellowstone was uneventful – out of one NP and into another. While it was only 120 miles (195 km) it was very slow going – the max. speed limit is 70 kph with many areas down to 55 kph. That combined with the traffic meant in was after lunch before we got here.

Bull elk

Animals are just as plentiful here as they were at Grand Teton. We stopped to look at some thermal features and the next thing we knew a bull elk with enormous antlers was bugling away close by. A little further on we were able to photograph a mule deer, so called because of their long ears, by the side of the road.

Some two-legged animals standing in the Yellowstone River also caught our attention and we decided to investigate. It turned our they were post-grad students from Utah State Uni conducting research into aquatic creatures.

A bison-jam

Before leaving home I had booked a four hour wildlife tour for today. This took us to the Lamar Valley in the north east section of Yellowstone. The driver was excellent and very knowledgeable. We saw lots of bison, in fact they are so plentiful that we don’t even bother to stop now. At one point our progress was stopped by a bison-jam. Eight or nine of the animals wandered onto the road and refused to move so traffic in both directions was halted for about 15 mins. Apparently you’re not allowed to blow your horn at them as it “frightens” them – well so National Parks say, and they rule with an iron fist. The bison stayed on the road until a motorist in a rental mobile home decided to run the gauntlet and gradually edged them off the road. It was all quite entertaining as a young female passenger from one of the cars decided to taunt the buffalo. I would have liked to see how fast she could run if they’d shown any interest. The highlight however was the three bears we saw – only one of which I was able to photograph. Helen was quite disappointed as she was too short to be able to aim the camera out the top window. Despite her displeasure it was still a worthwhile trip.

Now that USA schools have all restarted and colder weather is approaching, some of the facilities and services are starting to close down. The down side of this is that it significantly reduces our meal options (and increases costs) and all the ranger-run tours have finished as well. Despite this the place still seems very busy – I hate to imagine what it must be like in the peak season.

Jackson - Friday, Sep. 17 2010

Today was a hiking day however it began a little differently and for a while it looked like we might have been off to emergency. Helen awoke very early with bad sinus and difficulty breathing. She had some medication which fortunately eased the problem. In the meantime a phone call to our travel insurer, enquiries re local doctors etc took up a considerable amount of time. It turned out that the local doctor accepted “walk-in” patients so we decided to wait until late afternoon before paying him a visit as Helen was quite comfortable and sure she could handle what we had planned.

Cascade Canyon

The hike we had planned was up Cascade Canyon. This began with a 10 minute boat cruise across Jenny Lake. From there it was steeply uphill for 1.6 km. A mountain goat would have found it tough going. As we had caught the first boat for the day (10.00 am) we were able to walk in the relative coolness of the morning – not that that made it any easier.

After reaching the top of “billy-goat hill”, otherwise known as Inspiration Point, the trail levelled out a bit as it followed a delightful creek along the base of the canyon. It was a very pretty walk with the autumn colours of the foliage standing out in many places and the towering mountains on both sides. High up on the northern face there was quite a bit of snow and a few small glaciers. It was a very rewarding walk and quite exhilarating.

Animals are an important aspect of Grand Teton NP and again we were rewarded, although only fleetingly when we disturbed two moose who thundered off down through the trees, too quickly for us to obtain visual proof. A few chipmunks and a squirrel also made brief appearances.

Altogether we walked about 8 km with the walk down the hill almost as difficult as the climb up. Allan returned with a twisted ankle, an arthritic knee and a few abrasions and dented pride after slipping on some loose gravel. Needless to say we were pretty tired by the time we got back.

The buffalo who walked in front of our car.

Helen’s visit has to the doctor was quite profitable (for him and her) and she now has medication to assist with the sinus. The doctor? He has $99 for his consultation fee. Proof positive that medical services in USA are very expensive. Perhaps that’s why there was no one else in the waiting room.

Jackson - Thursday, Sep. 16 2010

What a great day. Grand Teton NP has a reputation for wildlife viewing and it certainly didn’t let us down.

We left the motel at 6.30 to have the best chance of spotting animals in the dawn. As the temperature was zero degrees it was a bit chilly, to say the least. Certainly well below the minimum temperatures we have experienced so far.

Buffalo were the first creatures to reveal themselves. Although it was a herd, quite some distance off, it was still pretty exciting. We’d been told there were moose near the Visitors Centre and as we approached the tell-tale sign of cars pulled off on the side of the road, indicated something interesting. A family of three moose were grazing alongside the Snake River. We were able to take some excellent pictures of the bull moose while mother and calf reclined in the grass.

A bear!!!!!

Bears! Bears! Bears! At last we were able to see bears in the wild. As part of our drive around the sights of Grand Teton (pronounced Tee-ton) NP, we went up a steep, winding road to Signal Mountain. On the way down we came across a number of cars pulled off on the side of the road. Sure enough – a mother black bear and cub were feeding on the huckleberry bushes about 10m off the road. Two rangers were present controlling the spectators – it’s recommended you stay at least 100m away but because they were so close the best the rangers could do was move people up or down the road as the bears changed position. The rangers got a little concerned when it looked like the bears might cross the road where we were. While all the excitement was going on we were snapping away madly – so have lots and lots of photos. Hopefully some will turn out good.

In the afternoon we saw another herd of buffalo grazing alongside the road – closer than the morning’s herd but still a fair way off. Again we took some more photos. Just as we were pulling out we saw a large dog-like animal. We came to a hasty stop and started snapping away at what turned out to be a coyote. By now traffic mayhem was in full swing as cars parked and dodged one another with everyone jostling to get a photo. While this was going on two buffalo no-one had noticed on the opposite side of the road decided to rejoin the herd by crossing the road only a few metres in front of our car. Talk about an adrenaline rush!

Sunrise on the Grand Tetons

So what else did we see? Because we had an early start we saw some magnificent sights as the sun rose. The Grand Tetons provided absolutely stunning scenery. Some snow and glaciers can still be seen on the peaks.

Adding colour to the scenery is the changing colours of the leaves. The dark green of the lodge-pole pines, contrasts with the lighter greens and yellows of the other trees. Although not fully into autumn/fall yet there’s a significant indication of what we might hopefully see before our trip finishes.

Did I mention the other animals we saw? While having lunch we were entertained by a squirrel going about his food collection. We also were privileged to see a number of pronghorn deer – distinctive by their white backsides while a brightly coloured male pronghorn walked parallel to us for some time as we drove slowly along a road.

Can it get any better? You’d hardly think so, but who knows!

Vernal to Jackson - Wednesday, Sep. 15 2010

Mum and a friend

An early start to the day saw us check out at 6.30 am. With almost six hours of driving to get to Jackson, we figured an early start would help. It was a good decision. On leaving Vernal we climbed out the valley and up to about 8000 feet. The countryside was arid and barren. However once we topped the mountain it was almost like another world – trees, grass and shrubs dominated the landscape. I can only suspect Vernal must be in a rain-shadow.

The drive was quite pleasant despite being long and we broke up the trip by stopping in Pinedale to have a look at the Museum of the Mountain Man. It was quite exceptional and dealt with the lives of the fur trappers, traders and indian tribes. We almost did a 17 mile Skyline Drive which took us high up into the mountains above Pinedale and provided some outstanding views.

Pronghorn Deer

Helen was very pleased to at last get some photos of deer. Because of the early start we saw some wandering across the road. In one small place we passed herds of them in the paddocks quite happily grazing away.

Jackson is just as I expected it to be. BUSY, BUSY, BUSY! Like the Gold Coast on steroids – people everywhere. The population is a bit over 8000 but with tourists it’s probably at least three times that. Definitely not the place to come to for a quiet weekend.

By the time we arrived here we had done 2000 miles (3200 km) and we’re only twelve days into the trip. Hertz are certainly going to get a very well-used car back by the time we have finished with it.

Moab to Vernal - Tuesday, Sep. 14 2010

Near Rangely

An early start and a mostly boring drive through some very arid countryside just about sums up the day. Along the way we stopped and saw a number of ancient rock art sites through the Pintado Canyon, just before reaching Rangely. Rangely itself was a bit of an “oasis” in the desert as the surrounding area was very dry and sandy – we could envisage huge dust-storms when the wind blew. It was interesting to see oil drilling being carried our nearby while between Rangely and Lomax there were gas extraction going on.

Green River at Dinosaur National Monument

We also stopped at Dinosaur National Monument but were disappointed to find that two of the main visitors’ centres were closed. As a result we missed out on seeing the dinosaur fossils. Nevertheless there was some spectacular scenery along the Green River. The Green River is a tributary of the Colorado and we had seen it in the distance from the Island in the Sky.

Vernal is very much like Moab – the main street just goes on and on. There doesn’t seem to be anything like a “shopping centre”.

Our motel here in Vernal is the height of luxury – we have a king room and the bathroom alone is almost as big as some rooms we’ve stayed in. The number of TV channels on offer is amazing – this motel has 141!! Most have 50+. Some of the news and current affairs programs are quite painful. Each event is dissected to death – for instance, analysis of the proposal to build a mosque at “Ground Zero” has been going on for days. Everybody who is anybody gets interviewed etc. I quite like the ads however. They are generally on a higher intellectual level than ours and quite often leave you wondering what the hell it’s about until the end.

For dinner tonight we had a Chinese buffet. It was exceptional value - $7.75 ea (plus tax, of course). I’ve never seen so much variety – there were 6 “islands” containing just about everything imaginable.