Crater Lake NP to Crescent City - Tuesday, Sep. 28 2010

Today dawned like another day in heaven so it was a real shame to be leaving Crater Lake. However an amazing sensation awaited our arrival in Crescent City. As we got out of the car an overwhelming odour came to our attention. What was it? The smell of the sea and salt air. A sea mist had formed along the ocean shore. It was rather reminiscent of when we had visited Pacific Rim NP on the west coast of Vancouver Island in 2007.

Helen and a couple of Redwood friends

On the way to Crescent City we travelled down the Redwood Highway, so named for obvious reasons. Just when you think you’ve seen all the great sites another pops up to capture your attention – namely the stately redwood trees. The drive itself was a challenge of concentration as the road wound through steep-sided valleys covered with pine trees of various types on an ever downward spiral towards sea level. The scenery was just breath-taking. We made a number of photo stops but a still photo hardly does justice. I think a 360 degree roof mounted camera (a la Google) might have done the job.

The major attraction for the day was a visit to Stout Grove, a large cluster of old growth redwood trees. Normally these can be reached by a short walk across a bridge over the nearby Smith River. However National Parks remove the bridge after the Labor Day weekend (early September) to prevent it being damaged by flooding from the torrential rain which can occur. We had to drive down a narrow road and walk about a kilometre to gain access to the grove and the trail which winds through it.

The redwood tunnel - lights on please!

Words fail to adequately describe these trees and their size. No single photo can encompass a complete tree so we had to be satisfied with “bits and pieces”. I took a movie of a tree in the hope that it might convey an impression of their immense size and some comparative size photos with Helen as the “reference point”. The tallest tree in the grove is the height of a 35 storey building! Just massive.

Towards evening the sea fog rolled in and by the time we had finished dinner it was difficult to see more than 20m ahead. We saw both seals and sea lions in the harbour although getting a good photo in the conditions was near impossible.

Crater Lake NP - Monday, Sep. 27 2010

What a glorious day! Brilliant sunshine, no clouds, very little wind and a temperature in the low 20s. I can’t imagine too many better places to spend a day like today than in Crater Lake NP. Because of the conditions the views of the lake, no matter from what position or angle, were simply outstanding. The colour of the water was just the prettiest blue imaginable and because there was no wind the reflections were picture perfect.

We began the day with a short hike (spotted three deer so Helen was very pleased) and a film on the history of the park.

This was followed up with a two hour tour of the lake rim in a gas-powered trolley bus and led by one of the park rangers. He was absolutely brilliant – extremely knowledgeable and entertaining in his presentation. My betting is that he was a teacher in a “previous life”. We were surprised to learn that he is only employed for the 3 or 4 months of summer and has to find his own employment for the remainder of the year. The fact that he has been coming here for 18 years reinforced his love for the park and helped explain the professionalism of his presentation. The trolley bus tours only started operating in July and the NP people are hoping to make them a highlight of a visit to Crater Lake. It was well worth every cent of the $22 per head.

Phantom Ship rock

After the tour we had a quick lunch and set out on our own rim excursion and were able to get photos of some of the places the tour missed. Two of the interesting sights were a rock formation in the lake called the Phantom Ship, which looked just like a sailing ship, and the Old Man of the Lake – a floating log about a metre above the lake surface which moves around the lake with the fluctuating currents.

All in all it was thoroughly enjoyable day.

The Pinnacles

I think I’m falling in love with pine forests. From those in Yellowstone, to those around Bend and here at Crater Lake (and those we saw in BC in 2007), they are just very different environments to the eucalypt forests we have at home. The dark green colours, shade, coolness, softness underfoot, smell – there’s just something appealing about them.

It is with a little sadness that I realised today our driving tour is almost over (one week to go). We’ve seen so many interesting and amazing things and so much incredible scenery that the memories will last forever. On the other side however is the pleasure and anticipation of seeing Tony and Cyndy in a week’s time.

Bend to Crater Lake NP - Sunday, Sep. 26 2010

Deschutes River rapids

Crater Lake with Wizard Island on right

While yesterday was very warm it was a different story as we departed from Bend this morning. We were going to visit some more volcanic places of interest but while waiting for one to open we noticed a sign which indicated four miles to a Benham Falls so we decided to investigate and were glad we did. The Deschutes River, which flows through Bend, began in one of the small lakes we saw yesterday. We followed its course for a short distance while it was a narrow twisting but very attractive stream and it was this same river where we found the waterfall today. It was a very different river however as it raged over rapids and through a narrow rocky ravine.

The area around Bend is hugely popular for a variety of activities – miles and miles of trails and tracks wind through the parks and forests and there are picnic spots everywhere...
Yesterday we came across a group of people doing a 50km run through the forest; another group doing a long distance shuttle relay; a group of people mountain biking along forest trails. Today while we were walking along the river a number of people were going for a run. I’d love to have the recreational opportunities around here, back in Wollongong.

After the exercise involved in walking along the river and enjoying the scenery we decided that lava fields would be rather boring so continued on our way towards Crater Lake, today’s destination.

The first view of Crater Lake is rather like the first view of places like the Grand Canyon and Uluru. You know it’s going to be big but you’re still in awe when you actually see it.

As the name suggests the lake is located in the caldera of a Mt Mazama which collapsed 7700 years ago following a large eruption. The resulting crater was filled with water from rainfall and snowfall. The average snowfall is 13.5m per year – the snow-poles along the road are the tallest I’ve ever seen. The lake is almost 600m deep and is the most brilliant blue colour. It is about 8km in diameter and surrounded by steep rock walls which rise up to 600m above the lake’s surface. Very, very impressive.

Our accommodation is in Crater Lake Lodge and our room on the third floor is high up in the roof line. As a result we have a couple of head-banger spots where the sloping roof meets the ceiling. Think I might visit the toilet on hands and knees during the night just to be safe.

Bend - Saturday, Sep. 25 2010

Our accommodation in Bend is really well located. We’re about 4 km from the centre of town which hardly matters as whole blocks nearby are chockfull of shops providing just about anything we might need. There are lots of take-away, restaurant and coffee shop options, a huge Safeway supermarket, Barnes & Noble bookshop, Costco, a place called Big Lots and so on and so on. Last night we checked out a shop called Goodys – their specialty is chocolates and ice-cream. The signature item is self serve frozen yoghurt (7 or 8 different flavours). You serve yourself and add whatever toppings you want (about 30 to choose from) and then take your concoction to the register. The cost is worked out at 40c per ounce (an ounce is about 30 grams). It seemed like quite a novelty idea and was very popular.

Lake Todd

This morning we set off to follow Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway – the operative words being Lakes and Scenic. The drive took us past Mt Bachelor – the main skiing area about 30 km out of Bend. Some of the lakes were stunningly beautiful – our favourite was Lake Todd and we would have enjoyed staying there all day if there hadn’t been other things to see and do.

On our way back to Bend we stopped at the High Desert Museum and spent about three hours there because it was so interesting. We were particularly impressed with the displays on the history and culture of the native Americans and on the settlement and development of the area by white people. Some raptors and other animals native to the area were housed in outside areas. On otter was one of the highlights for us as we had never seen one of these playful creatures before.

Caldwell to Bend - Friday, Sep. 24 2010

Our motel in Caldwell was excellent – double queen room + wifi + complimentary breakfast + a heated pool (Helen had a swim) for $80 (incl. Tax). This was our cheapest stay and one of our best. In actual fact we haven’t stopped in a dud place yet – the tour organiser must have done a good job organising the accommodation! While we budgeted $150 a night for accommodation, it’ll probably come in well under that, even allowing for the fact that we have paid $200 a night in a few places (eg Monument Valley and the National Parks).

The key to getting the best deal is to book online, select the AAA rate, request a double queen room and ask for a ground floor unit. Nobody has quibbled about the AAA rate and we’ve never been asked for a card. NRMA membership card has the AAA reciprocal logo on it and that’s what I was banking on using if asked. Why double queen? The rate is usually the same as for a single queen and you end up with a more spacious room.

Today we had a looooong boring drive from Caldwell to Bend – lots of sagebrush and arid countryside with only a Maccas stop about halfway to break it up. Helen drove for about an hour which gave me a good break. As we are now on Pacific Time we gained an hour so now are only seven hours different to Wollongong and back in the same time-zone as Tony.

Snow-capped mountains near Bend

Bend is a large town with over 80 000 people and quite attractive. We wandered through a riverside park which was very cool and pleasant. We also got a free carwash courtesy of the local Hertz agent as we had accumulated lots and lots of insects driving through the farming areas between Idaho Falls and Bend.

A number of snow-capped mountains could be clearly seen as we approached Bend. In fact the snow coverage is more extensive that we saw in the Tetons.

Idaho Falls to Caldwell - Thursday, Sep. 23 2010

Our motel in Idaho Falls provided an excellent complimentary breakfast so we weren’t in too big a hurry to leave.

Lava scenery

Our main scheduled stop was at Craters of the Moon National Monument. To get there we drove across about 80 km of arid, treeless plain with nothing much to see but shrubs of sage-brush and tussocks of dry grass. As the name suggests, it had to do with the volcanic activity in the area and the lava flows which resulted. Helen and I were intrigued by the variety of formations. It would be hard to imagine a more rugged and difficult environment. In summer it is blazing hot and in winter freezing cold. Today there was a lazy, chilly wind to contend with.

On our way to today’s destination, Caldwell, we very nearly came to grief. Dora’s instructions while travelling through Shoshone were to make a left turn, followed by a right turn. Just as I started to turn right a vehicle towing a trailer raced through the inside lane. His trailer wheel made contact with the front wheel of the car. I am absolutely amazed that there was no contact anywhere else and the only damage is a mark on the rim. I can only assume some higher being must have been looking after us! That left us a little shaken but OK.

Irrigated paddock

Between Idaho Falls and Caldwell the Snake River valley makes a large loop which we rejoined after our Shoshone experience. The area displays amazingly rich farming resources. The amount of irrigation was mind-boggling. Huge irrigation sprays move in a circular pattern to water crops such as corn, lucerne and potatoes. One minute you’re driving through dry, arid looking sage-brush and the next you’re surrounded by lush irrigated pastures. As the Snake River is fed by snow-melt from Grand Teton and Yellowstone there’s obviously no shortage of water.

The Americans really have to be complimented on their road network. The interstate highways in particular are a driver’s dream. Two lanes of divided highway that just goes on and on with a maximum speed of 75 mph (120 kph). Through Boise, a city of over 200 000 people it became four lanes in each direction. Even the lesser highways are well constructed, have a speed limit of 65 mph (105 kph) and feel very safe to drive on.

Canyon Village to Idaho Falls - Wednesday, Sep. 22 2010

It was a little disappointing having to leave Yellowstone this morning – such an amazing place, mainly because of the wildlife and scenery. On the way out to West Yellowstone we saw a large herd of elk and some bison. At one place in the park, road-works were being carried out and we had a wait of 15 – 30 minutes. Just as we pulled up a large bull elk happened to be standing on the side of the road.

The town of West Yellowstone is just outside the park in Montana. It’s a tourism hub for the park with lots of accommodation – we were staggered by the number of three storey complexes in the town. It also has very wide streets and the shops along the main street exhibit a typically western theme. The IMAX theatre is a prominent building approaching the town from Yellowstone. Another major attraction is the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Centre. We spent about two hours there and it was a great opportunity to find out more about these animals. The reintroduction of the wolf to Yellowstone has been quite contentious, especially amongst the farming community surrounding the park. Nevertheless their survival now seems assured.

After leaving West Yellowstone we made a stop at Big Springs, the source of one of the tributaries (Henry’s Fork) of the Snake River. Water from some of Yellowstone’s snow melt seeps underground and emerges at Big Springs in a very attractive stream which is home to lots of rainbow trout. We were able to see and feed these from the bridge over the stream.

Further south we followed a scenic drive which took us past two waterfalls on Henry’s Fork and a number of other view-points.

Our motel in Idaho Falls was on the bank of the Snake River and adjacent to a beautiful landscaped park. A weir which extends down the centre of the river for at least a kilometre is used to generate 50% of the city’s electricity and seems an excellent piece of innovation.

Helen took the opportunity to put through a load of washing while I put the car through a car wash, after I found it that is! Dora did a good job of finding it for me but on the way home she wanted to send me the wrong way up a one-way street. I suspect from that adventure that the Hertz Never-lost system needs to update its maps.

Canyon Village, Yellowstone NP - Tuesday, Sep. 21 2010

Frosty stream

Yesterday was the coldest day we’ve experienced since leaving home with a maximum of about 14 degrees and with a cold biting wind. Today we awoke to a very heavy frost – the first I can remember for many years.

Due to the road closure caused by the fire we had a short driving day today and only travelled to Mammoth Hot Springs on the northern boundary of the park and just inside the Montana - Wyoming border.

Terraces at Mammoth

The main hydrothermal feature there is the terraces which have been formed by deposition of minerals out of the water. This has built up over the years into a series of terraces or steps. It’s quite amazing what mother nature can conjure up.

As well as the terraces Mammoth is renowned for the herd of elk which roam the village. EVERYWHERE there are signs advising people not to approach the elk and three NP volunteers were given the task of keeping the people away from the animals as they alternatively dozed and fed on the lush green lawns. They were quite oblivious to the fuss they were generating.

Fort Yellowstone was established at Mammoth in the early days of the park’s history when the cavalry was given the task of protecting the park and its wildlife from members of the public. Most of the buildings from the fort have been preserved and it’s a credit that they are in such excellent condition. Again, as with Fort Verde, this was a fort without a wall.

Considering the end of the season is near it was mind-boggling to see just how many people were there while the traffic on the road was quite hectic too.

It appears that once the schools go back and the weather starts to get cooler the National Parks start shutting down. By the end of September there will be very little still operating in the park. Evidence of preparation for winter is everywhere. A number of the campgrounds are closed; some roads are closed; some services here at Canyon Village (Deli and Cafeteria) have already shut; the stock in the store is declining and not being replaced and some clothing items are on sale. Yesterday we saw a toilet block boarded up to prevent snow entering and the NP staff have been out putting the snow poles along the road.

We’ve thoroughly enjoyed our week in Grand Teton and Yellowstone. The scenery and wildlife is the main attraction for us and there has been plenty of that to marvel at.

Canyon Village, Yellowstone NP - Monday, Sep. 20 2010

After yesterday’s “driving day” we opted to spend today around Canyon Village. Canyon Village and Canyon Lodge take the first part of their name from the adjacent Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone – not as majestic as the Grand Canyon in Arizona but very impressive and spectacular nevertheless.

The Yellowstone River flows out of Yellowstone Lake and flows north. As it nears here it tumbles over two majestic waterfalls – the Upper and Lower Falls. The amount of water flowing over is enormous and one can only imagine what it must be like in early spring when it is swollen by snow-melt.

328 steps down & 328 back up!

There are two drives along the canyon – South Rim and North Rim. Both have a number of lookouts and trails leading to outstanding views of the canyon and the falls. One trail we took led us to a stupendous viewpoint of the lower falls. Perhaps a “trail” is a bit of a misnomer as it actually involved 328 steps down (and of course 328 back up). There was a warning sign for those with heart or breathing issues but we took the ascent cautiously and experienced no problems. It was a great view and well worth the effort.

After lunch we took on the trail to the brink of the lower falls for a different perspective. This involved a 180m descent (in 1.2 km) and with lots of switchbacks. Again the heart and breathing warnings applied but we came through just fine. It was a truly amazing experience at the top of the falls with about 140 000 litres of water flowing over every second.

When we went out on the wildlife excursion on Saturday we saw a fire (started by lightning) in the park. Fires are considered a natural event and are allowed to burn pretty much unimpeded, unless they threaten property or look like getting out of hand. As a result the road north from here is closed about 18 km away. We were hoping to do the northern loop tomorrow and come back this way so may have to reassess our plans if the road remains closed.

Grizzly bear cub

After Helen’s disappointment with the wildlife tour on Saturday, we set off this evening to rectify the situation, with great success. First we came across a black bear on the side of the road and a little further on a grizzly bear with two cubs. As a result Helen was in “bear heaven”. On the return trip the icing on the cake consisted of two elk and a number of mule deer. Mission accomplished!

Canyon Village, Yellowstone NP - Sunday, Sep. 19 2010

Today was a thermal experience. Apart from wildlife, Yellowstone is also renowned for its geothermal features of which “Old Faithful” is probably the best known.

The roads in the park basically form a figure eight and Canyon Lodge, where we are staying, is at the centre of the two loops. Most of the geysers, fumaroles, hot springs and mud ponds are in the bottom loop and this was the area we traversed today. I read somewhere that there are more hydrothermal features in Yellowstone than the rest of the world combined.

I suppose if you were right into volcanoes and associated hydrothermal highlights it would be excellent but Helen and I found after 7or 8 stops it was just variations on a theme. Don’t get me wrong, it was interesting and we saw some fabulous and unusual sights.

We did get to see “Old Faithful” geyser erupt but weren’t tremendously impressed. There were hundreds of people in a huge semi-circular location around it and the “show” lasted for a few minutes. I suppose the most amazing thing about it is its regularity. The rangers are able to predict when the next eruption will occur, within plus or minus ten minutes.

The Yellowstone countryside is very different to the mountainous backdrop of Grand Teton NP.

Grand Teton consists of a majestic mountain range to the west, a river flat largely occupied by the Snake River and numerous lakes.

Yellowstone on the other hand is dominated by Lake Yellowstone. The surrounding country is a variety of hills, valleys, small mountains, the Yellowstone River and a number of smaller streams. Pine trees cover about 80% of the park interspersed with grassy meadows and clearings.

The dominant tree is the lodgepole pine. In stressful times it adapts by shedding its lower branches so that it resembles a pole with a Christmas tree on top. Other pine species consist of the Sub-Arctic Fir (a sharp, pointy shape) and spruce which have a more rounded top. Sage brush occupies the more open areas.

The rivers and streams are extremely attractive – clear water flowing over rapids and through grassy meadows.

On our journey today we were rewarded by sighting a wolf, off the road about 200m. Again the traffic jam of cars as drivers pulled over and parked willy-nilly, was the tip-off.

Jackson to Canyon Village, Yellowstone NP - Saturday, Sep. 18 2010

The trip up from Jackson to Yellowstone was uneventful – out of one NP and into another. While it was only 120 miles (195 km) it was very slow going – the max. speed limit is 70 kph with many areas down to 55 kph. That combined with the traffic meant in was after lunch before we got here.

Bull elk

Animals are just as plentiful here as they were at Grand Teton. We stopped to look at some thermal features and the next thing we knew a bull elk with enormous antlers was bugling away close by. A little further on we were able to photograph a mule deer, so called because of their long ears, by the side of the road.

Some two-legged animals standing in the Yellowstone River also caught our attention and we decided to investigate. It turned our they were post-grad students from Utah State Uni conducting research into aquatic creatures.

A bison-jam

Before leaving home I had booked a four hour wildlife tour for today. This took us to the Lamar Valley in the north east section of Yellowstone. The driver was excellent and very knowledgeable. We saw lots of bison, in fact they are so plentiful that we don’t even bother to stop now. At one point our progress was stopped by a bison-jam. Eight or nine of the animals wandered onto the road and refused to move so traffic in both directions was halted for about 15 mins. Apparently you’re not allowed to blow your horn at them as it “frightens” them – well so National Parks say, and they rule with an iron fist. The bison stayed on the road until a motorist in a rental mobile home decided to run the gauntlet and gradually edged them off the road. It was all quite entertaining as a young female passenger from one of the cars decided to taunt the buffalo. I would have liked to see how fast she could run if they’d shown any interest. The highlight however was the three bears we saw – only one of which I was able to photograph. Helen was quite disappointed as she was too short to be able to aim the camera out the top window. Despite her displeasure it was still a worthwhile trip.

Now that USA schools have all restarted and colder weather is approaching, some of the facilities and services are starting to close down. The down side of this is that it significantly reduces our meal options (and increases costs) and all the ranger-run tours have finished as well. Despite this the place still seems very busy – I hate to imagine what it must be like in the peak season.

Jackson - Friday, Sep. 17 2010

Today was a hiking day however it began a little differently and for a while it looked like we might have been off to emergency. Helen awoke very early with bad sinus and difficulty breathing. She had some medication which fortunately eased the problem. In the meantime a phone call to our travel insurer, enquiries re local doctors etc took up a considerable amount of time. It turned out that the local doctor accepted “walk-in” patients so we decided to wait until late afternoon before paying him a visit as Helen was quite comfortable and sure she could handle what we had planned.

Cascade Canyon

The hike we had planned was up Cascade Canyon. This began with a 10 minute boat cruise across Jenny Lake. From there it was steeply uphill for 1.6 km. A mountain goat would have found it tough going. As we had caught the first boat for the day (10.00 am) we were able to walk in the relative coolness of the morning – not that that made it any easier.

After reaching the top of “billy-goat hill”, otherwise known as Inspiration Point, the trail levelled out a bit as it followed a delightful creek along the base of the canyon. It was a very pretty walk with the autumn colours of the foliage standing out in many places and the towering mountains on both sides. High up on the northern face there was quite a bit of snow and a few small glaciers. It was a very rewarding walk and quite exhilarating.

Animals are an important aspect of Grand Teton NP and again we were rewarded, although only fleetingly when we disturbed two moose who thundered off down through the trees, too quickly for us to obtain visual proof. A few chipmunks and a squirrel also made brief appearances.

Altogether we walked about 8 km with the walk down the hill almost as difficult as the climb up. Allan returned with a twisted ankle, an arthritic knee and a few abrasions and dented pride after slipping on some loose gravel. Needless to say we were pretty tired by the time we got back.

The buffalo who walked in front of our car.

Helen’s visit has to the doctor was quite profitable (for him and her) and she now has medication to assist with the sinus. The doctor? He has $99 for his consultation fee. Proof positive that medical services in USA are very expensive. Perhaps that’s why there was no one else in the waiting room.

Jackson - Thursday, Sep. 16 2010

What a great day. Grand Teton NP has a reputation for wildlife viewing and it certainly didn’t let us down.

We left the motel at 6.30 to have the best chance of spotting animals in the dawn. As the temperature was zero degrees it was a bit chilly, to say the least. Certainly well below the minimum temperatures we have experienced so far.

Buffalo were the first creatures to reveal themselves. Although it was a herd, quite some distance off, it was still pretty exciting. We’d been told there were moose near the Visitors Centre and as we approached the tell-tale sign of cars pulled off on the side of the road, indicated something interesting. A family of three moose were grazing alongside the Snake River. We were able to take some excellent pictures of the bull moose while mother and calf reclined in the grass.

A bear!!!!!

Bears! Bears! Bears! At last we were able to see bears in the wild. As part of our drive around the sights of Grand Teton (pronounced Tee-ton) NP, we went up a steep, winding road to Signal Mountain. On the way down we came across a number of cars pulled off on the side of the road. Sure enough – a mother black bear and cub were feeding on the huckleberry bushes about 10m off the road. Two rangers were present controlling the spectators – it’s recommended you stay at least 100m away but because they were so close the best the rangers could do was move people up or down the road as the bears changed position. The rangers got a little concerned when it looked like the bears might cross the road where we were. While all the excitement was going on we were snapping away madly – so have lots and lots of photos. Hopefully some will turn out good.

In the afternoon we saw another herd of buffalo grazing alongside the road – closer than the morning’s herd but still a fair way off. Again we took some more photos. Just as we were pulling out we saw a large dog-like animal. We came to a hasty stop and started snapping away at what turned out to be a coyote. By now traffic mayhem was in full swing as cars parked and dodged one another with everyone jostling to get a photo. While this was going on two buffalo no-one had noticed on the opposite side of the road decided to rejoin the herd by crossing the road only a few metres in front of our car. Talk about an adrenaline rush!

Sunrise on the Grand Tetons

So what else did we see? Because we had an early start we saw some magnificent sights as the sun rose. The Grand Tetons provided absolutely stunning scenery. Some snow and glaciers can still be seen on the peaks.

Adding colour to the scenery is the changing colours of the leaves. The dark green of the lodge-pole pines, contrasts with the lighter greens and yellows of the other trees. Although not fully into autumn/fall yet there’s a significant indication of what we might hopefully see before our trip finishes.

Did I mention the other animals we saw? While having lunch we were entertained by a squirrel going about his food collection. We also were privileged to see a number of pronghorn deer – distinctive by their white backsides while a brightly coloured male pronghorn walked parallel to us for some time as we drove slowly along a road.

Can it get any better? You’d hardly think so, but who knows!

Vernal to Jackson - Wednesday, Sep. 15 2010

Mum and a friend

An early start to the day saw us check out at 6.30 am. With almost six hours of driving to get to Jackson, we figured an early start would help. It was a good decision. On leaving Vernal we climbed out the valley and up to about 8000 feet. The countryside was arid and barren. However once we topped the mountain it was almost like another world – trees, grass and shrubs dominated the landscape. I can only suspect Vernal must be in a rain-shadow.

The drive was quite pleasant despite being long and we broke up the trip by stopping in Pinedale to have a look at the Museum of the Mountain Man. It was quite exceptional and dealt with the lives of the fur trappers, traders and indian tribes. We almost did a 17 mile Skyline Drive which took us high up into the mountains above Pinedale and provided some outstanding views.

Pronghorn Deer

Helen was very pleased to at last get some photos of deer. Because of the early start we saw some wandering across the road. In one small place we passed herds of them in the paddocks quite happily grazing away.

Jackson is just as I expected it to be. BUSY, BUSY, BUSY! Like the Gold Coast on steroids – people everywhere. The population is a bit over 8000 but with tourists it’s probably at least three times that. Definitely not the place to come to for a quiet weekend.

By the time we arrived here we had done 2000 miles (3200 km) and we’re only twelve days into the trip. Hertz are certainly going to get a very well-used car back by the time we have finished with it.

Moab to Vernal - Tuesday, Sep. 14 2010

Near Rangely

An early start and a mostly boring drive through some very arid countryside just about sums up the day. Along the way we stopped and saw a number of ancient rock art sites through the Pintado Canyon, just before reaching Rangely. Rangely itself was a bit of an “oasis” in the desert as the surrounding area was very dry and sandy – we could envisage huge dust-storms when the wind blew. It was interesting to see oil drilling being carried our nearby while between Rangely and Lomax there were gas extraction going on.

Green River at Dinosaur National Monument

We also stopped at Dinosaur National Monument but were disappointed to find that two of the main visitors’ centres were closed. As a result we missed out on seeing the dinosaur fossils. Nevertheless there was some spectacular scenery along the Green River. The Green River is a tributary of the Colorado and we had seen it in the distance from the Island in the Sky.

Vernal is very much like Moab – the main street just goes on and on. There doesn’t seem to be anything like a “shopping centre”.

Our motel here in Vernal is the height of luxury – we have a king room and the bathroom alone is almost as big as some rooms we’ve stayed in. The number of TV channels on offer is amazing – this motel has 141!! Most have 50+. Some of the news and current affairs programs are quite painful. Each event is dissected to death – for instance, analysis of the proposal to build a mosque at “Ground Zero” has been going on for days. Everybody who is anybody gets interviewed etc. I quite like the ads however. They are generally on a higher intellectual level than ours and quite often leave you wondering what the hell it’s about until the end.

For dinner tonight we had a Chinese buffet. It was exceptional value - $7.75 ea (plus tax, of course). I’ve never seen so much variety – there were 6 “islands” containing just about everything imaginable.

Moab - Monday, Sep. 13 2010

Our last day on the Colorado Plateau. We’ve spent the last ten days on it and we’ve still only seen a fraction of what there is to see. The Colorado Plateau takes in part of four states – Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah, and is massive in size. It’s mind blowing to think that all the landscapes we’re been admiring have been produced by one river system, namely the Colorado and its tributaries.

Dead Horse Point State Park and the Colorado River

It’s hard to find new adjectives to describe the things we’ve seen. To try and keep things in perspective I try and compare with places we’ve seen back home ( the Warrumbungles, Kings Canyon, Bungle Bungles etc). The truth is there just isn’t any comparison.

I think we’ve taken about 1000 photos each so far and although there’s a lot of culling to be done that just indicates the variety of things we’ve seen and experienced.

This morning we drove up the Colorado River canyon – even this far upstream it’s still a mighty river and the canyon it’s carved out is just as impressive as those further downstream.

View from Grandview Point, Island in the Sky

After lunch we travelled to Dead Horse Point State Park and the the Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands NP. It’s called the Island in the Sky because it’s a huge plateau area surrounded on all sides by steep cliffs and with only a narrow neck of land providing access.

Tomorrow (Tuesday) we head to Vernal and along the way visit Dinosaur National Monument.

The last few days it has been over 30 degrees each day but it looks as though we’re heading into cooler weather as we move into Wyoming. We may ever get to wear some of the other half of the clothes that haven’t yet made it out of our ports.

Moab - Sunday, Sep. 12 2010

Landscape Arch

Another National Park today – this time Arches NP, just outside Moab. As the name suggests the main feature of this park are the arches and windows created by erosion but there are also columns, fins (thin rock structures) etc.

The Visitors’ Centre provides an excellent introduction into this desert environment with a feature film about Arches and its sister park, Canyonlands. We wondered about the “greenness” of the desert until we were told that they have had an unusually wet season which is responsible for the grass and shrubs being so luxuriant.

For some reason both mum and I were very tired today, sleepy tired as well as physically. Perhaps it’s due to the higher elevation – about 2000 m – walking was a real effort. We were quite exhausted and just glad to have a lie down by the time we got back to the motel.

Despite the lack of energy we managed to see most of the park’s highlights.

Double Arch

Mum has been busy chasing chipmunks without success. By the time she sees one and gets the camera aimed it’s gone – they’re just too quick!!!

The fourth petrol fill today and another different system. Can’t complain about the price however – about $3 a gallon which works out to be about 80 c/L. Food prices are pretty good. We’ve been buying a roast chook for $4.99 – they’re only small but big enough for a meal for two along with some salad. The range of salads is quite different to what we’ve seen at home. We bought a broccoli salad one night and it was really delicious. One thing I do like about the USA (and BC was similar), is the variety of foods and flavours available. Our “nibbles collection” for instance consists of Black Pepper and Sea Salt Pretzels, Natural Butter Flavoured Pretzels and Butternut Ranch Pretzel Pieces. The other thing we’ve been enjoying is summer fruit – strawberries ($2.50 a punnet) and grapes $1 a pound. The other surprising thing (at least at the places we’ve shopped) is that much of the fruit comes from Chile although we have seen some from New Zealand and some apples from Australia. 

Monument Valley to Moab - Saturday, Sep. 11 2010

Mexican Hat.

A relatively slow day with all morning taken up travelling from Monument Valley to Moab, including a few detours to take in some sights. We passed through one town called Mexican Hat – this rock formation demonstrates where the name came from. Further on we detoured from the main road to visit Newspaper Rock. It seems rather a shame that a rock-face containing a large number of petroglyphs (ancient pictures made by rock-pecking) has to be given an anglicised name.

Upon arriving in Moab we discovered we were too early to check-in so headed to a laundromat to do a load of washing. Mum’s getting as much experience in this area of domestic duties as I am with filling the car with petrol.

Newspaper Rock

After a short siesta we visited the Visitors’ Centre at Arches National Park (Sunday’s objective) and made an exploratory trip into a section of the park. More amazing scenery is just waiting to be revealed.

Moab is an interesting place – very, very tourism orientated as there are lots of adventure sports people can engage in as well as the two national parks in the area. Motels are EVERYWHERE! The town occupies a long narrow valley and is about 10 km, end to end. With so much accommodation there’s no shortage of eating establishments as well.

Chinle to Monument Valley - Friday, Sep. 10 2010

After the awesome views in Canyon de Chelly yesterday one could be forgiven for thinking it couldn’t get any better.

The view from the balcony  of our room.

Today we travelled about two hours to Monument Valley which straddles the state line between Arizona and Utah. Monument Valley is famous for its scenery and also as a venue for  approx. 50 movies and a countless number of advertisements. A number of western movies including some starring John Wayne were shot here. “Forest Gump” and “Mission Impossible II” were two of the most recent ones.

We booked in to The View Hotel after reading reviews about its stunning location and were not disappointed. While quite expensive, the facilities and the view in particular considerably offset the cost. All rooms have a view over the valley and the buttes and mesas for which Monument Valley is famous. The exterior of the building is coloured to blend in with the surrounding rocks and provides employment for many of the local Navajo.

Travis, our Navajo guide

We had booked a 2 ½ hour tour with a Navajo guide (Travis) and had the entire tour to ourselves. He took us through some of the “public” areas of the valley but spent most of the time in the “back country”, which most visitors rarely see. Without doubt the highlight was when he produced a guitar and drum and led us to a natural rock amphitheatre. It turned out he was an extremely talented musician and entertained us with a number of songs he had written himself. The Navajo and Apache tribes are close in their ancestry, and he also performed an Apache rain-dance.

In all, it was a hugely entertaining and informative afternoon.

The 4WD vehicles we travelled in at Canyon de Chelly and here at Monument Valley would never pass registration at home and could only be described as decrepit wrecks. Still they served the purpose but did leave us wondering how they were able to get away with it.

It is recommended that only 4WD and high clearance vehicles take the road into the valley but that didn’t stop people driving their cars in.

Chinle - Thursday, Sep. 9 2010

Over 18 months ago when I started planning this trip, I came across an absolutely beautiful picture of a place in Arizona. When I located it on a map and found out a bit more information, it became a must visit so our itinerary was designed to include Chinle. Today we had the pleasure of seeing Spider Rock in Canyon de Chelly and it was well worth every bit of effort in making this trip.

Spider Rock

The Grand Canyon, Yellowstone and most of the other places we are visiting are on the list of “well-known” tourist attractions. Spider Rock, while not quite so well known loses nothing in comparison. It might not have the grandeur associated with the Grand Canyon but in my opinion exceeds it in beauty. The contrasting colours of red and green are just stunningly breathtaking in their beauty. Google “Spider Rock Arizona” and I’m sure you’ll find images to prove my words beyond contradiction. When I next upload our photos, I’ll include one of our own.

We began the day with a tour of Canyon de Chelly with a local Navajo guide who lives in the canyon. While he could have been more informative he took us into the canyon, an experience not possible without a native guide. Negotiating the sandy bed required a 4WD and would have been a real thrill in our Prado.

Inside the canyon we were able to get a close-up of the ruins of the early inhabitants. As the canyon is part of the Navajo Reservation it is occupied by farmers carrying on a fairly traditional lifestyle. Wild horses roam the area and are considered communal property.

While the tour, which lasted for three hours, provided an insight into the inner canyon, it was our drive along the south-rim and the seven overlooks which provided a true appreciation of the canyon’s beauty. It also reinforced how lucky we were to have done the guided tour in the morning as from the rim, the ruins were barely visible.

A truly great day with lots of outstanding memories.

We have now filled the car with petrol on three occasions, with each providing a different experience. Why can’t it be as simple as back home?

Tonight we watched the opening of the NFL season in New Orleans. Talk about razz-a-mataz. A bit of overkill I think but nevertheless a great spectacle.

Flagstaff to Chinle - Wednesday, Sep. 8 2010

One of today’s major highlights was mum getting the opportunity to drive for about 50 miles on the “wrong” side of the road. Approaching Chinle tiredness set in and it was either stop and rest or change drivers. I think she enjoyed the experience and it certainly helped me out.

On our way out of Flagstaff we stopped at Meteor Crater which was exactly as the name says and supposedly one of the largest in the world. It was quite impressive and is actually used by NASA to train their astronauts.

Part of our journey today followed the legendary Route 66 which was a 2000 mile journey from Chicago to Los Angeles. We actually saw a group of bikers and their support vehicles who were recreating the trip.

Painted Desert

Today we visited the Petrified Forest and the Painted Desert. The Petrified Forest consists of the remains of trees from the dinosaur era which have been petrified, with some of the trees displaying root and trunk structure as if they had just fallen over. The original trees were carried by raging floodwaters during which the branches and bark were stripped off, leaving just the trunks to be petrified over time.

The Painted Desert was really spectacular and as we were blessed with sunshine all the colours were on display. We treated ourselves an ice-cream at the Visitors Centre and it had to be the largest single scoop I’ve ever seen.

Chinle was the place I agonised most over in trying to select accommodation. There are only two options and on Trip Advisor, both get lots of negative reviews. I eventually settled on the Best Western and we were pleasantly surprised to find it wasn’t as bad as painted. The on-site restaurant was quite acceptable too and the meals we had were huge servings and both under $10. Another common criticism was about the dogs roaming the streets. We’ve only seen one but there were a number of horses roaming around.

Chinle does have a very depressing appearance and the vast majority of the population is Navajo. Still we’re not here for the town and tomorrow we have a tour of Canyon de Chelly (Shay) in the morning to look forward to.

Grand Canyon to Flagstaff - Tuesday, Sep. 7 2010

Today began very grey and overcast. Not long after leaving Bright Angel Lodge it started to rain quite heavily – and I thought Arizona had an arid climate! We’d planned to make a couple of stops along the east rim at Grandview Point and Desert Rim which we still did but the fabulous views very spoilt by the conditions. Still it was an opportunity to see the Canyon in another setting. We both commented how fortunate we’d been that yesterday was such a great day, weather and activity wise and that we just have to make the most of what’s available.

We were fascinated along the drive east by the number of ramshackle roadside stalls set up for selling native wares. Some of the native “settlements” we saw looked chaotic and sad. In this respect I don’t think there’s a lot of difference between our indigenous people and those here.

After about 40 miles (65 km) the rain eased and although it was still very overcast the rain held off and we were able to continue with our plans. Wupatki National Monument was our first stop after leaving the Canyon and was an opportunity to see the remains of the pueblos (homes) of some of the early inhabitants going back about 900 years. These were made of stone slabs and were ingeniously built. Life must have been hard as they sometimes had to trek up to 16 km for water. It’s interesting to hear about the lives of these people and to make the inevitable comparisons with our indigenous people.

The Wupatki was a village setting for about 100 families. Part of a pueblo has been restored and the actual rooms, doorways are able to be seen. The way they incorporated the original rock surface into their buildings was quite ingenious.

Sunset Crater is an extinct volcano which erupted about the same time as the natives were living at nearby Wupatki and seriously impacted on their lives. It was interesting to find out more about the and we were able to walk for a few kilometres around the base. Interestingly, the height of Sunset Crater is higher than Mt Kosciusko! It would look stunning in winter with the comparison between the white of the snow and the black of the ash covered slope.

The GPS, which mum has nicknamed Dora (the explorer), came good again today. On entering Flagstaff the intersection we needed to turn at was blocked by a massive accident. While we kept going Dora did a recalculation and came up with another route. I think mum and I would probably be divorced by now if she was responsible for navigating us around. I think the GPS is an excellent piece of technology but as with lots of technology can make us mentally lazy. I must add that the Hertz Never-lost GPS is not as sophisticated as some I’ve read about. For instance there are no indicators for fixed cameras, traffic lights, exceeding the speed limit etc.

Could someone please buy me a Chev Impala for Christmas? I love it and it will be the hardest thing to leave behind even if I do occasionally turn on the seat warmer when adjusting the air-con.